RFT's Best of Food & Drink in St. Louis 2022 [PHOTOS]

By on Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 12:06 pm

Mask mandates may be a thing of the past, dining rooms are at full capacity and diners have come back out in full force. If you’re on the receiving end of the service industry, you’d be tempted to think that the pandemic is over with restaurants basking in a Roaring ’20s-style resurgence fueled by the public’s unquenchable thirst for merriment. But while it’s true that the demand side of the equation has not simply recovered but grown even stronger since before the COVID-19 outbreak, things have not returned to normal for the industry itself — not even close.

Staff shortages, which have stressed nearly every restaurant to the breaking point, signal a long-time-coming systemic reckoning wherein service-industry employees are pushing back against an old-fashioned and, at worst, abusive culture. Supply-chain breakdowns mean that restaurants — especially immigrant-owned mom-and-pop shops — have a difficult time sourcing what they need to run their businesses. Price increases are being disproportionately absorbed by restaurants, which know that they need to charge $22 for cheeseburgers but equally know their customers won’t stomach the cost. Add to this a stressed and exhausted dining public that pushes the limits of the now-outdated adage “the customer is always right,” and you get a situation where many in the industry are asking themselves why in the hell they are even in this business.

The following places remind us why. In looking at the names that make up the Best of St. Louis Food and Drink for 2022, what’s striking is not a particular dish, a well-balanced cocktail or a stunning view but the sheer grit demonstrated by the people behind each of these places. That they have the strength to persevere in the face of such difficulty is more than impressive — it’s the most honest form of hospitality there is.

—Cheryl Baehr

*Due to the volatility in the restaurant industry, please always call or check a restaurant’s website before going.
Scroll down to view images
Page 2 of 3
Best Pizza that Isn’t St. Louis Style Pizzeria da Gloria St. Louisans will never stop arguing the merit of St. Louis pizza. (Is Provel cheese heaven? Or is it melted plastic? We’ll never really know.) But one thing that everybody can agree on is that Neapolitan pizza is perfection of the form. If you want the best Neapolitan pizza in St. Louis, you go straight to Pizzeria da Gloria (2024 Marconi Avenue, 314-833-3734) on the Hill. Straight out of the oven, these pizzas are the perfect combination of bubbling hot and char-blistered. The crust has just the right amount of chew and serves as a perfect foundation for pizzaiolo Joe Kurowski’s brilliant flavor combinations. But if you want to try a perfect little piece of heaven, go for the margherita. It might be the best slice in town. —Jaime Lees
Mabel Suen
Best Pizza that Isn’t St. Louis Style
Pizzeria da Gloria

St. Louisans will never stop arguing the merit of St. Louis pizza. (Is Provel cheese heaven? Or is it melted plastic? We’ll never really know.) But one thing that everybody can agree on is that Neapolitan pizza is perfection of the form. If you want the best Neapolitan pizza in St. Louis, you go straight to Pizzeria da Gloria (2024 Marconi Avenue, 314-833-3734) on the Hill. Straight out of the oven, these pizzas are the perfect combination of bubbling hot and char-blistered. The crust has just the right amount of chew and serves as a perfect foundation for pizzaiolo Joe Kurowski’s brilliant flavor combinations. But if you want to try a perfect little piece of heaven, go for the margherita. It might be the best slice in town.
—Jaime Lees
21 of 59
Best Comfort Food Rock Star Tacos Rock Star Tacos (4916 Shaw Avenue, 314-625-7508) serves a dish called the Poutina Turner. It’s a basket of French fries covered with its proprietary Rock Star Dust seasoning, then topped with impossibly chunky chorizo gravy, cheese curds, onions and cilantro — and if you want to take it over the top, you can add a six-minute egg to the mix. It’s a basket of comfort, the sort of thing you dive into, face-first, when you need to eat your feelings. However, what makes Rock Star Tacos such a bastion of the warm and fuzzies is not limited to chorizo-covered fries. Since opening their sophomore endeavor on the Hill last November (the original spot was a walk-up shack in New Town, which has since closed), owners Wil Pelly and Rebecca Schaaf have turned a casual taco brand into a phenomenon with whimsically named tacos, such as the Number of the Beef or the Amy Swinehouse, that match the carefree, come-as-you-are spirit of the restaurant. The food is good — damn good — but what’s better is enjoying it in such a fun, welcoming atmosphere where you can laugh at silly menu names, guzzle down easy-drinking Nicaraguan lager and momentarily bask in a joyous reprieve from the seriousness of the day. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Comfort Food
Rock Star Tacos

Rock Star Tacos (4916 Shaw Avenue, 314-625-7508) serves a dish called the Poutina Turner. It’s a basket of French fries covered with its proprietary Rock Star Dust seasoning, then topped with impossibly chunky chorizo gravy, cheese curds, onions and cilantro — and if you want to take it over the top, you can add a six-minute egg to the mix. It’s a basket of comfort, the sort of thing you dive into, face-first, when you need to eat your feelings. However, what makes Rock Star Tacos such a bastion of the warm and fuzzies is not limited to chorizo-covered fries. Since opening their sophomore endeavor on the Hill last November (the original spot was a walk-up shack in New Town, which has since closed), owners Wil Pelly and Rebecca Schaaf have turned a casual taco brand into a phenomenon with whimsically named tacos, such as the Number of the Beef or the Amy Swinehouse, that match the carefree, come-as-you-are spirit of the restaurant. The food is good — damn good — but what’s better is enjoying it in such a fun, welcoming atmosphere where you can laugh at silly menu names, guzzle down easy-drinking Nicaraguan lager and momentarily bask in a joyous reprieve from the seriousness of the day.
—Cheryl Baehr
22 of 59
Best Mexican Sabroso For years, chef Miguel Pintor has been lending his talents to other restaurants around town, including the beloved Mission Taco Joint where he served as culinary director. He’d always dreamed of owning a restaurant of his own so that he could showcase the flavors of traditional Mexican cuisine, so when the pandemic prompted him to amicably part ways with the Mission Taco folks, he saw it as his chance to make his vision a reality. Together with his wife Brandin Maddock, Pintor opened Sabroso Cocina Mexicana (11146 Old Saint Charles Road, St. Ann; 314-918-5037) in an unassuming St. Ann strip mall. With no liquor license and an out-of-the-way location, they had to rely solely on their food to make it work. It’s been a success thanks to Pintor’s stunning cooking. Though he’s added a handful of Tex-Mex-style dishes to the menu, most of what’s offered at Sabroso gives you a window into what it would be like to dine with his family in Mexico City and Tabasco. His tortas are soon-to-be legendary, his tamale is a masterpiece, and his birria makes you understand why the slow-cooked beef dish has become the food trend du jour. However, if there is one dish that defines Sabroso, it’s the cochinita pibil, a stunning pulled-pork dish that’s so tender you could spread it on a cracker. Like Sabroso at large, it’s nothing short of breathtaking. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Mexican
Sabroso

For years, chef Miguel Pintor has been lending his talents to other restaurants around town, including the beloved Mission Taco Joint where he served as culinary director. He’d always dreamed of owning a restaurant of his own so that he could showcase the flavors of traditional Mexican cuisine, so when the pandemic prompted him to amicably part ways with the Mission Taco folks, he saw it as his chance to make his vision a reality. Together with his wife Brandin Maddock, Pintor opened Sabroso Cocina Mexicana (11146 Old Saint Charles Road, St. Ann; 314-918-5037) in an unassuming St. Ann strip mall. With no liquor license and an out-of-the-way location, they had to rely solely on their food to make it work. It’s been a success thanks to Pintor’s stunning cooking. Though he’s added a handful of Tex-Mex-style dishes to the menu, most of what’s offered at Sabroso gives you a window into what it would be like to dine with his family in Mexico City and Tabasco. His tortas are soon-to-be legendary, his tamale is a masterpiece, and his birria makes you understand why the slow-cooked beef dish has become the food trend du jour. However, if there is one dish that defines Sabroso, it’s the cochinita pibil, a stunning pulled-pork dish that’s so tender you could spread it on a cracker. Like Sabroso at large, it’s nothing short of breathtaking.
—Cheryl Baehr
23 of 59
Best Chain Shake Shack It’s no secret that famed restaurateur Danny Meyer got the inspiration for his wildly successful burger chain Shake Shack (multiple locations including 60 North Euclid Avenue, 314-627-5518) from his childhood in St. Louis spent filling up on Steak ‘n Shake and Ted Drewes. That’s why it was so exciting when the man who literally wrote the book on hospitality finally opened an outpost of the beloved brand in his hometown a few years back. Now with three area locations, his fellow St. Louisans have solid access to Shake Shack’s signature noshes — a cause for celebration once you’ve experienced this mouthwatering food. A far cry from the mass-produced nonsense peddled by typical chain fast food restaurants, Shake Shack feels soulful. The burgers are juicy and fresh, the crinkle-cut fries hot and salty, and the concretes are so thick and sweet they’d make Ted Drewes Sr. himself smile. Our hometown hero has certainly done us proud. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Chain
Shake Shack

It’s no secret that famed restaurateur Danny Meyer got the inspiration for his wildly successful burger chain Shake Shack (multiple locations including 60 North Euclid Avenue, 314-627-5518) from his childhood in St. Louis spent filling up on Steak ‘n Shake and Ted Drewes. That’s why it was so exciting when the man who literally wrote the book on hospitality finally opened an outpost of the beloved brand in his hometown a few years back. Now with three area locations, his fellow St. Louisans have solid access to Shake Shack’s signature noshes — a cause for celebration once you’ve experienced this mouthwatering food. A far cry from the mass-produced nonsense peddled by typical chain fast food restaurants, Shake Shack feels soulful. The burgers are juicy and fresh, the crinkle-cut fries hot and salty, and the concretes are so thick and sweet they’d make Ted Drewes Sr. himself smile. Our hometown hero has certainly done us proud.
—Cheryl Baehr
24 of 59
Best Middle Eastern Sultan After fleeing Iraq in the early 1980s, Akran Saeed and his wife, Jenar Mohammed, came to St. Louis as refugees where the former found work as a taxi driver and the latter stayed at home to take care of their family and manage the household. During that time, Mohammed perfected her already excellent traditional Kurdish recipes and expanded her repertoire to include other Middle Eastern specialties. After finding work outside the home as a cook at Sameem Afghan restaurant, Mohammed began to dream of opening a restaurant of her own one day. That vision was realized as Sultan (4200 Manchester Avenue, 314-390-2020), which has been dazzling diners with outstanding Kurdish, Palestinian, Syrian and Turkish fare ever since it opened in the Grove in 2019. Mohammed’s cooking is marvelous, evoking the sort of deep comfort you’d enjoy eating in her home kitchen. Her kabobs are excellent, as is her musakhan, a Middle Eastern-style pizza topped with seasoned pulled chicken. However, Sultan’s must-try dish is its pilau, a phyllo shell stuffed with rice, almonds, pistachios, walnuts, raisins and seasoned lamb that perfumes the air with an intoxicating aroma, embodying the soulful magic that is Sultan at large. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Middle Eastern
Sultan

After fleeing Iraq in the early 1980s, Akran Saeed and his wife, Jenar Mohammed, came to St. Louis as refugees where the former found work as a taxi driver and the latter stayed at home to take care of their family and manage the household. During that time, Mohammed perfected her already excellent traditional Kurdish recipes and expanded her repertoire to include other Middle Eastern specialties. After finding work outside the home as a cook at Sameem Afghan restaurant, Mohammed began to dream of opening a restaurant of her own one day. That vision was realized as Sultan (4200 Manchester Avenue, 314-390-2020), which has been dazzling diners with outstanding Kurdish, Palestinian, Syrian and Turkish fare ever since it opened in the Grove in 2019. Mohammed’s cooking is marvelous, evoking the sort of deep comfort you’d enjoy eating in her home kitchen. Her kabobs are excellent, as is her musakhan, a Middle Eastern-style pizza topped with seasoned pulled chicken. However, Sultan’s must-try dish is its pilau, a phyllo shell stuffed with rice, almonds, pistachios, walnuts, raisins and seasoned lamb that perfumes the air with an intoxicating aroma, embodying the soulful magic that is Sultan at large.
—Cheryl Baehr
25 of 59
Best Barbecue The Stellar Hog If you’ve ever had Alex Cupp’s beef ribs, a Sundays-only special at the Chesterfield location of his barbecue restaurant the Stellar Hog (multiple locations including 40 Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterfield; 636-778-9204), you understand his tagline “Best Barbecue in the Galaxy.” These meaty wonders are unequivocally the clearest example of primal, carnivorous joy known to man — the dish you’d present on a platter should the aliens finally make contact and want to know our species’ highest achievement. A case study in meat, fat, salt and char, the ribs have the perfect balance of meaty chew, but enough fat that you could spread them on a biscuit. Cupp is a master of the meat-smoking craft, and his other dishes like brisket, ribs and pulled pork show his prowess. However, the beef ribs are so mind-bogglingly delicious that they make thoughts of any other meats disappear into the void. When we have to flee this planet, we’ll be taking Cupp and his smoker with us. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Barbecue
The Stellar Hog

If you’ve ever had Alex Cupp’s beef ribs, a Sundays-only special at the Chesterfield location of his barbecue restaurant the Stellar Hog (multiple locations including 40 Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterfield; 636-778-9204), you understand his tagline “Best Barbecue in the Galaxy.” These meaty wonders are unequivocally the clearest example of primal, carnivorous joy known to man — the dish you’d present on a platter should the aliens finally make contact and want to know our species’ highest achievement. A case study in meat, fat, salt and char, the ribs have the perfect balance of meaty chew, but enough fat that you could spread them on a biscuit. Cupp is a master of the meat-smoking craft, and his other dishes like brisket, ribs and pulled pork show his prowess. However, the beef ribs are so mind-bogglingly delicious that they make thoughts of any other meats disappear into the void. When we have to flee this planet, we’ll be taking Cupp and his smoker with us.
—Cheryl Baehr
26 of 59
Best New Restaurant Tempus Tempus (4370 Manchester Avenue, 314-349-2878) technically opened in October of 2020, though St. Louis was only able to bask in the restaurant’s full glory beginning last November when the dining room opened. Prior to that, due to the pandemic, Tempus was operating as a takeout restaurant, albeit the city’s best example of how to translate an upscale dining experience into a to-go box. But once it began firing on all cylinders, guests could finally experience chef and chief operator Ben Grupe’s full vision of what Tempus could be: a restaurant that fully committed to nailing every last aspect of hospitality and set the bar for modern upscale dining. Grupe was hesitant to talk about the restaurant that way. For roughly two decades, the talented chef has been dazzling the culinary world, adding to his resume such impressive accomplishments as a Greenbriar apprenticeship and a gold medal in a number of international competitions, including the world Culinary Olympics. With Tempus, he intentionally tried to get away from those traditional notions of fine dining, positioning the restaurant as a welcoming neighborhood place while infusing those elevated elements into everything he and his team did. The result was an experience that threaded the needle between flawless and unfussy — a difficult tone to strike but one he and his staff nailed, and one intimately tied to who Grupe is as a chef and hospitality professional. That’s why it came as such a shock when the restaurant announced in August that Grupe had left. At the time of writing, Tempus remains temporarily shuttered, its owner insisting that it will reopen after a period of time to refresh and restructure. That uncertainty in no way takes away from the magic Grupe and his team created in the past year. That we were able to experience such an outstanding restaurant, however briefly, is reason enough to feel lucky.—Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best New Restaurant
Tempus

Tempus (4370 Manchester Avenue, 314-349-2878) technically opened in October of 2020, though St. Louis was only able to bask in the restaurant’s full glory beginning last November when the dining room opened. Prior to that, due to the pandemic, Tempus was operating as a takeout restaurant, albeit the city’s best example of how to translate an upscale dining experience into a to-go box. But once it began firing on all cylinders, guests could finally experience chef and chief operator Ben Grupe’s full vision of what Tempus could be: a restaurant that fully committed to nailing every last aspect of hospitality and set the bar for modern upscale dining. Grupe was hesitant to talk about the restaurant that way. For roughly two decades, the talented chef has been dazzling the culinary world, adding to his resume such impressive accomplishments as a Greenbriar apprenticeship and a gold medal in a number of international competitions, including the world Culinary Olympics. With Tempus, he intentionally tried to get away from those traditional notions of fine dining, positioning the restaurant as a welcoming neighborhood place while infusing those elevated elements into everything he and his team did. The result was an experience that threaded the needle between flawless and unfussy — a difficult tone to strike but one he and his staff nailed, and one intimately tied to who Grupe is as a chef and hospitality professional. That’s why it came as such a shock when the restaurant announced in August that Grupe had left. At the time of writing, Tempus remains temporarily shuttered, its owner insisting that it will reopen after a period of time to refresh and restructure. That uncertainty in no way takes away from the magic Grupe and his team created in the past year. That we were able to experience such an outstanding restaurant, however briefly, is reason enough to feel lucky.
—Cheryl Baehr
27 of 59
Best Cheeseburger, plant-based Station No. 3 The Station No. 3 (1956 Utah Street, 314-925-8883) cheeseburger is one of the best burgers in the city. A perfect mix of high concept and homespun, this soon-to-be classic has the texture of what would be on offer at a greasy-spoon diner but with the perfectly seasoned and spiced flavor profile of a burger that tastes like it ought to cost twice as much as this one does. The burger is rounded out by jalapeños that pack a low-key punch that doesn’t overwhelm the smoked aioli. What is the patty made out of? You’ll just have to guess. “We kind of keep it a secret,” says general manager Michael Auman, who adds it isn’t black bean or lentil based. Maybe after I enjoy a few more I’ll be able to venture a guess. Luckily, the burger manages to be filling while not sitting heavy in your stomach or sending you into a food coma. —Ryan Krull
Lulu Nix
Best Cheeseburger, plant-based
Station No. 3

The Station No. 3 (1956 Utah Street, 314-925-8883) cheeseburger is one of the best burgers in the city. A perfect mix of high concept and homespun, this soon-to-be classic has the texture of what would be on offer at a greasy-spoon diner but with the perfectly seasoned and spiced flavor profile of a burger that tastes like it ought to cost twice as much as this one does. The burger is rounded out by jalapeños that pack a low-key punch that doesn’t overwhelm the smoked aioli. What is the patty made out of? You’ll just have to guess. “We kind of keep it a secret,” says general manager Michael Auman, who adds it isn’t black bean or lentil based. Maybe after I enjoy a few more I’ll be able to venture a guess. Luckily, the burger manages to be filling while not sitting heavy in your stomach or sending you into a food coma.
—Ryan Krull
28 of 59
Best Sushi Taberu Though the general public has only become aware of Heidi Hamamura’s stunning sushi platters since the beginning of the pandemic, the talented chef has been creating them much longer for private and country-club clients. Trained by her iconic chef father Naomi “Hama” Hamamura, the younger Hamamura has come into her own as she builds her sushi brand Taberu (@taberu_stl). A versatile culinary talent who has worked in such esteemed restaurants as Elaia and the St. Louis Club, Hamamura has found her voice with Taberu, something that’s clear if you have ever enjoyed one of her outrageously delicious, meticulously put-together sushi platters. A specialty order and catering operation, Taberu offers an omakase sushi experience, which allows Hamamura the creative freedom to customize her trays based on the best of what’s available. She’s also the person responsible for bringing sushi cakes to St. Louis; the savory masterpieces just might be the city’s most whimsical way to celebrate a birthday, though every time you eat something from Taberu, it’s a party. —Cheryl Baehr
Courtesy Taberu
Best Sushi
Taberu

Though the general public has only become aware of Heidi Hamamura’s stunning sushi platters since the beginning of the pandemic, the talented chef has been creating them much longer for private and country-club clients. Trained by her iconic chef father Naomi “Hama” Hamamura, the younger Hamamura has come into her own as she builds her sushi brand Taberu (@taberu_stl). A versatile culinary talent who has worked in such esteemed restaurants as Elaia and the St. Louis Club, Hamamura has found her voice with Taberu, something that’s clear if you have ever enjoyed one of her outrageously delicious, meticulously put-together sushi platters. A specialty order and catering operation, Taberu offers an omakase sushi experience, which allows Hamamura the creative freedom to customize her trays based on the best of what’s available. She’s also the person responsible for bringing sushi cakes to St. Louis; the savory masterpieces just might be the city’s most whimsical way to celebrate a birthday, though every time you eat something from Taberu, it’s a party.
—Cheryl Baehr
29 of 59
Best Bakery Sucrose For 12 years, Aaron and Agi Groff have been dazzling St. Charles sweets lovers with their European-style pastries, first as Four Seasons Bakery and now as the aptly named Sucrose (700 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-410-8505). The Culinary Institute of America-trained chefs have developed a fiercely loyal following, not just because of their dazzling sweet treats but because they seamlessly blend their technical know-how with the easy comfort of the old-world family recipes Agi experienced growing up in Germany. Though Sucrose turns out stunning, haute pastries, the shop has a warmth to it and feels more like a neighborhood bakery than the high-end patisserie its wares suggest. From chocolate-and-peanut-butter tarts to macarons to olive-oil cakes and scones, this gem is the epicenter of sweets in St. Charles — and well worth the drive for those on the east side of the Missouri River. —Cheryl Baehr
Kevin Korinek
Best Bakery
Sucrose

For 12 years, Aaron and Agi Groff have been dazzling St. Charles sweets lovers with their European-style pastries, first as Four Seasons Bakery and now as the aptly named Sucrose (700 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-410-8505). The Culinary Institute of America-trained chefs have developed a fiercely loyal following, not just because of their dazzling sweet treats but because they seamlessly blend their technical know-how with the easy comfort of the old-world family recipes Agi experienced growing up in Germany. Though Sucrose turns out stunning, haute pastries, the shop has a warmth to it and feels more like a neighborhood bakery than the high-end patisserie its wares suggest. From chocolate-and-peanut-butter tarts to macarons to olive-oil cakes and scones, this gem is the epicenter of sweets in St. Charles — and well worth the drive for those on the east side of the Missouri River.
—Cheryl Baehr
30 of 59
Best New Bar Platypus There are tradeoffs in life, and that goes for nightlife, too. If you want the anything-goes degeneracy of a true dive bar, you must generally give up all hope of a proper cocktail. If you desire tinctures, bitters and complicated layers of flavor, you’ll have to get dressed up and stop swearing like a south-city sailor. Them’s the rules — but we can’t help but applaud when Platypus (4501 Manchester Avenue, 314-448-1622) shatters them to marvelous effect. This corner bar on the not-yet-gentrified western edge of the Grove’s main drag feels a bit gritty in the best way possible. It’s a bar-bar, not a club; staff and patrons alike are full-on casual; and the food window in the back room, a separate operation called Eat DuckBill, serves proper drunk food (popcorn chicken, fries, crispy tofu). The drinks are listed on a chalkboard. But what drinks! Platypus is the brainchild of two of St. Louis’ most renowned bartenders, Tony Saputo and Meredith Barry, and their hands are evident in the ever-changing roster of a half-dozen, top-notch options. There’s often a slushy, too, challenging the longstanding nightlife adage that if boozy slushies are on offer, the patrons must be sloppy and annoying. Platypus has thrown out the rule book, and as you savor these drinks and the hum of conversation on its super-chill patio, you’ll surely agree that’s a very good thing. —Sarah Fenske
Mabel Suen
Best New Bar
Platypus

There are tradeoffs in life, and that goes for nightlife, too. If you want the anything-goes degeneracy of a true dive bar, you must generally give up all hope of a proper cocktail. If you desire tinctures, bitters and complicated layers of flavor, you’ll have to get dressed up and stop swearing like a south-city sailor. Them’s the rules — but we can’t help but applaud when Platypus (4501 Manchester Avenue, 314-448-1622) shatters them to marvelous effect. This corner bar on the not-yet-gentrified western edge of the Grove’s main drag feels a bit gritty in the best way possible. It’s a bar-bar, not a club; staff and patrons alike are full-on casual; and the food window in the back room, a separate operation called Eat DuckBill, serves proper drunk food (popcorn chicken, fries, crispy tofu). The drinks are listed on a chalkboard. But what drinks! Platypus is the brainchild of two of St. Louis’ most renowned bartenders, Tony Saputo and Meredith Barry, and their hands are evident in the ever-changing roster of a half-dozen, top-notch options. There’s often a slushy, too, challenging the longstanding nightlife adage that if boozy slushies are on offer, the patrons must be sloppy and annoying. Platypus has thrown out the rule book, and as you savor these drinks and the hum of conversation on its super-chill patio, you’ll surely agree that’s a very good thing.
—Sarah Fenske
31 of 59
Best Taco Cochinita Pibil at Sureste Mexican When you receive your order of the cochinita pibil from Sureste Mexican (3730 Foundry Way, no phone), you might think there’s been a mistake. Instead of the expected meat-filled tortilla shells, Sureste’s version comes out deconstructed; a bowl brimming with slow-cooked pork is garnished generously with pickled onions and served with three handmade blue-corn tortillas, rolled up on the side of the dish. It may not be as familiar to St. Louisans as Tex-Mex or street-taco versions — which is exactly why chef and owner Alex Henry opened Sureste in the first place. After cooking at some of the area’s most celebrated restaurants, Henry decided to follow his dream of bringing traditional Yucatan cuisine to town, opening Sureste this past fall in City Foundry as a culinary homage to the region of Mexico where he grew up. His traditional dishes are revelatory, opening diners’ eyes to a style of cuisine not as well known in this part of the Midwest, and there is no better way to explore it than the cochinita pibil. For this porcine masterpiece, Henry begins with a whole hog that he breaks down and slow cooks with a homemade spice paste and citrus. The result is a luscious meat that glistens with a glorious nectar of citrus juice and fat that is both decadent and bright. You’ll wonder why you’ve thought of tacos any other way. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Taco
Cochinita Pibil at Sureste Mexican

When you receive your order of the cochinita pibil from Sureste Mexican (3730 Foundry Way, no phone), you might think there’s been a mistake. Instead of the expected meat-filled tortilla shells, Sureste’s version comes out deconstructed; a bowl brimming with slow-cooked pork is garnished generously with pickled onions and served with three handmade blue-corn tortillas, rolled up on the side of the dish. It may not be as familiar to St. Louisans as Tex-Mex or street-taco versions — which is exactly why chef and owner Alex Henry opened Sureste in the first place. After cooking at some of the area’s most celebrated restaurants, Henry decided to follow his dream of bringing traditional Yucatan cuisine to town, opening Sureste this past fall in City Foundry as a culinary homage to the region of Mexico where he grew up. His traditional dishes are revelatory, opening diners’ eyes to a style of cuisine not as well known in this part of the Midwest, and there is no better way to explore it than the cochinita pibil. For this porcine masterpiece, Henry begins with a whole hog that he breaks down and slow cooks with a homemade spice paste and citrus. The result is a luscious meat that glistens with a glorious nectar of citrus juice and fat that is both decadent and bright. You’ll wonder why you’ve thought of tacos any other way.
—Cheryl Baehr
32 of 59
Best Vegetarian Tree House St. Louis is famous for its barbecue and gooey butter cake. But that doesn’t mean the city can’t whip up a sexy vegan or vegetarian dish for its herbivore-inclined citizens. Tree House (3177 South Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100) offers both brunch and dinner menus for a slightly upscale but utterly delicious dining experience. The food is prepared without any animal products, though dairy-and-egg lovers can ask for the real deal if they’d prefer. Tree House embraces a variety of cuisines and features dishes such as sweet-corn hush puppies, pasta Florentine and jackfruit tinga sopes. The dishes are perfect for sharing and splitting, with large, artfully plated portions. And yes, meat-eaters are allowed too, as long as they’re willing to try Beyond Beef and cashew cream. ––Olivia Poolos
Jennifer Silverberg
Best Vegetarian
Tree House

St. Louis is famous for its barbecue and gooey butter cake. But that doesn’t mean the city can’t whip up a sexy vegan or vegetarian dish for its herbivore-inclined citizens. Tree House (3177 South Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100) offers both brunch and dinner menus for a slightly upscale but utterly delicious dining experience. The food is prepared without any animal products, though dairy-and-egg lovers can ask for the real deal if they’d prefer. Tree House embraces a variety of cuisines and features dishes such as sweet-corn hush puppies, pasta Florentine and jackfruit tinga sopes. The dishes are perfect for sharing and splitting, with large, artfully plated portions. And yes, meat-eaters are allowed too, as long as they’re willing to try Beyond Beef and cashew cream.
––Olivia Poolos
33 of 59
Best Steak Twisted Tree Steakhouse There’s no other way to put it: Twisted Tree Steakhouse (10701 Watson Road, 314-394-3366) serves up heaven on a plate. From the second you sit down and look around the dining room, you know you’re in for a treat. You will see people leaning back in their chairs, indicating that they couldn’t possibly take another bite. If that’s not encouraging, a look at the menu, which includes toasted brisket ravioli, lobster burrata and signature cocktails, ought to do the trick. When the time comes and a server rolls out your still-sizzling steak and pours the juice atop, it’s game on. Bite into that delicious, tender steak and find yourself wondering where it all went after it’s devoured in a matter of minutes. Juicy and flavorful, the steak at Twisted Tree is a can’t miss. —Jenna Jones
Mabel Suen
Best Steak
Twisted Tree Steakhouse

There’s no other way to put it: Twisted Tree Steakhouse (10701 Watson Road, 314-394-3366) serves up heaven on a plate. From the second you sit down and look around the dining room, you know you’re in for a treat. You will see people leaning back in their chairs, indicating that they couldn’t possibly take another bite. If that’s not encouraging, a look at the menu, which includes toasted brisket ravioli, lobster burrata and signature cocktails, ought to do the trick. When the time comes and a server rolls out your still-sizzling steak and pours the juice atop, it’s game on. Bite into that delicious, tender steak and find yourself wondering where it all went after it’s devoured in a matter of minutes. Juicy and flavorful, the steak at Twisted Tree is a can’t miss.
—Jenna Jones
34 of 59
Best Chicken Wings Three Kings Three Kings (multiple locations including 6307 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-721-3388) has the kind of chicken wings that keep you up at night, laying in bed, thinking about the savory Buffalo sauce, the crispy breading, the juicy chicken. Or maybe that’s just me. But the point still stands: These are not normal Buffalo chicken wings. These are chicken wings you could lose sleep over. Each order is a pound, and the wings seem to last forever. Even when you’re finished, the taste of the Buffalo sauce lingers. And we haven’t even talked about the Spicy Thai wings. Three Kings connoisseurs will argue for hours about which is better. Here’s the secret: It doesn’t matter. Their wings are unmatched in St. Louis. Located in several locations including the heart of the Loop, Three Kings seems like just a normal pub. It is a normal pub –– full of wooden booths, lots of TVs and lots of burgers. But it also happens to have world-class wings. —Benjamin Simon
Courtesy Three Kings
Best Chicken Wings
Three Kings

Three Kings (multiple locations including 6307 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-721-3388) has the kind of chicken wings that keep you up at night, laying in bed, thinking about the savory Buffalo sauce, the crispy breading, the juicy chicken. Or maybe that’s just me. But the point still stands: These are not normal Buffalo chicken wings. These are chicken wings you could lose sleep over. Each order is a pound, and the wings seem to last forever. Even when you’re finished, the taste of the Buffalo sauce lingers. And we haven’t even talked about the Spicy Thai wings. Three Kings connoisseurs will argue for hours about which is better. Here’s the secret: It doesn’t matter. Their wings are unmatched in St. Louis. Located in several locations including the heart of the Loop, Three Kings seems like just a normal pub. It is a normal pub –– full of wooden booths, lots of TVs and lots of burgers. But it also happens to have world-class wings.
—Benjamin Simon
35 of 59
Best Brunch Beast Butcher & Block There’ve been a lot of losses in the restaurant business over the past few years. Late-night dining and drinking have become things of the past, hard-copy menus have turned into QR codes and opening hours have been cut to deal with staffing shortages. However, one of the more subtle losses is the disappearance of one of weekend dining’s most beloved traditions: the brunch buffet. It’s an understandable void but one that David and Meggan Sandusky were determined to fill safely when they reopened their live-fire brunch buffet at Beast Butcher & Block (4156 Manchester Avenue, 314-944-6003). Available every Sunday, this stunning spread showcases all that is beautiful about the quintessential breakfast buffet — eggs, homemade biscuits, potatoes, veggies and fruit — but what makes it special is that it offers these staples alongside Beast’s world-class smoked meats. You haven’t lived until you’ve had Beast’s bacon; though when it’s an all-you-can-eat option, you have to be careful not to overindulge lest you shorten your time here on earth. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Brunch
Beast Butcher & Block

There’ve been a lot of losses in the restaurant business over the past few years. Late-night dining and drinking have become things of the past, hard-copy menus have turned into QR codes and opening hours have been cut to deal with staffing shortages. However, one of the more subtle losses is the disappearance of one of weekend dining’s most beloved traditions: the brunch buffet. It’s an understandable void but one that David and Meggan Sandusky were determined to fill safely when they reopened their live-fire brunch buffet at Beast Butcher & Block (4156 Manchester Avenue, 314-944-6003). Available every Sunday, this stunning spread showcases all that is beautiful about the quintessential breakfast buffet — eggs, homemade biscuits, potatoes, veggies and fruit — but what makes it special is that it offers these staples alongside Beast’s world-class smoked meats. You haven’t lived until you’ve had Beast’s bacon; though when it’s an all-you-can-eat option, you have to be careful not to overindulge lest you shorten your time here on earth.
—Cheryl Baehr
36 of 59
Best Doughnuts Pharaoh's Donuts For over 20 years, Amon Aziz had been cooking up doughnuts for gas stations and stores around town, operating relatively anonymously as his wholesale customers took the credit for his handiwork. That changed in 2014 when Aziz and his daughter opened a small, off-the-beaten-path storefront in a downtown office building. Despite its tucked-away location, Pharaoh’s Donuts (multiple locations including 202 North Ninth Street, 314-351-0285) developed a loyal following thanks to Aziz’s truly spectacular doughnuts. Structured yet pouffy, sweet but not cloying, his delectable treats are the quintessential doughnut experience. Over the past couple of years, Pharaoh’s has expanded to a larger space downtown and a new storefront in the Central West End. What hasn’t changed is that Aziz is a genius whose stunning sweet wares make our city just a little more delicious. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Doughnuts
Pharaoh's Donuts

For over 20 years, Amon Aziz had been cooking up doughnuts for gas stations and stores around town, operating relatively anonymously as his wholesale customers took the credit for his handiwork. That changed in 2014 when Aziz and his daughter opened a small, off-the-beaten-path storefront in a downtown office building. Despite its tucked-away location, Pharaoh’s Donuts (multiple locations including 202 North Ninth Street, 314-351-0285) developed a loyal following thanks to Aziz’s truly spectacular doughnuts. Structured yet pouffy, sweet but not cloying, his delectable treats are the quintessential doughnut experience. Over the past couple of years, Pharaoh’s has expanded to a larger space downtown and a new storefront in the Central West End. What hasn’t changed is that Aziz is a genius whose stunning sweet wares make our city just a little more delicious.
—Cheryl Baehr
37 of 59
Best Frozen Treat Bingsu at Spoonful After spending several years living in Asia, Monica Lee returned to her native St. Louis utterly shocked that she could not find bingsu, a Korean shaved-ice treat that was readily available anywhere she’d traveled in China, Korea and Southeast Asia. Determined to take matters into her own hands, she opened Spoonful (12943 Olive Boulevard, 314-485-1757), a dessert cafe centered on the frosty treat. A hybrid of ice cream and shaved ice, Spoonful’s bingsu is like creamy, freshly fallen snow. The base flavor is vanilla, and from there, guests can build their own creations from a variety of toppings, including condensed milk, fresh fruit, cookies and cream, and roasted soybean powder with mochi. Light, cold and satisfying, it’s the perfect, whimsical treat to cool off in the scorching hot months — but it’s so delicious, we’d even eat it in the dead of winter. —Cheryl Baehr
Vu Phong
Best Frozen Treat
Bingsu at Spoonful

After spending several years living in Asia, Monica Lee returned to her native St. Louis utterly shocked that she could not find bingsu, a Korean shaved-ice treat that was readily available anywhere she’d traveled in China, Korea and Southeast Asia. Determined to take matters into her own hands, she opened Spoonful (12943 Olive Boulevard, 314-485-1757), a dessert cafe centered on the frosty treat. A hybrid of ice cream and shaved ice, Spoonful’s bingsu is like creamy, freshly fallen snow. The base flavor is vanilla, and from there, guests can build their own creations from a variety of toppings, including condensed milk, fresh fruit, cookies and cream, and roasted soybean powder with mochi. Light, cold and satisfying, it’s the perfect, whimsical treat to cool off in the scorching hot months — but it’s so delicious, we’d even eat it in the dead of winter.
—Cheryl Baehr
38 of 59
Best Coffeehouse Northwest Coffee Roasting Tucked away in the Central West End, Northwest Coffee Roasting (4251 Laclede Avenue, 314-371-4600) isn’t your normal coffee shop. First it has a huge patio, making it the perfect spot on a cool fall day. Spend a few hours there catching up with a friend, enjoying the breeze, getting some work done and sipping some coffee. Which brings us to another reason Northwest Coffee isn’t a typical coffee shop. All of the coffee beans are roasted in-house for longer than normal at a lower temperature. This means the coffee’s subtle flavors are allowed to emerge, bringing out a certain sweetness that you won’t taste in other places’ brews. The other reason this place stands out? It has beans from all over the world, including the Yirgacheffe region of Ethiopia and a Tanzanian coffee that is harvested from plants grown on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Worried about enjoying a cup when the weather is bad? Don’t. When it’s too hot or cold outside, the coffee shop also has indoor seating. —Benjamin Simon
Kristen DiRate
Best Coffeehouse
Northwest Coffee Roasting

Tucked away in the Central West End, Northwest Coffee Roasting (4251 Laclede Avenue, 314-371-4600) isn’t your normal coffee shop. First it has a huge patio, making it the perfect spot on a cool fall day. Spend a few hours there catching up with a friend, enjoying the breeze, getting some work done and sipping some coffee. Which brings us to another reason Northwest Coffee isn’t a typical coffee shop. All of the coffee beans are roasted in-house for longer than normal at a lower temperature. This means the coffee’s subtle flavors are allowed to emerge, bringing out a certain sweetness that you won’t taste in other places’ brews. The other reason this place stands out? It has beans from all over the world, including the Yirgacheffe region of Ethiopia and a Tanzanian coffee that is harvested from plants grown on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Worried about enjoying a cup when the weather is bad? Don’t. When it’s too hot or cold outside, the coffee shop also has indoor seating.
—Benjamin Simon
39 of 59
Best Takeout/Curbside/Drive-Thru Pizza Champ In March of 2020, Elmwood partners Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling found themselves standing in the middle of an empty dining room wondering what they were going to do to survive as a business. The time was filled with uncertainty, but there was one thing they were sure of: Fine dining, as we knew it, was not coming back, at least not for a very long time. The high-end restaurant veterans quickly adapted, turning their upscale dining room into a command center for a takeout-pizza operation that became so popular it transitioned from a pandemic survival tactic to a bona fide restaurant of its own. That concept, Pizza Champ (2657 Lyle Avenue, Maplewood; no phone), opened as a brick and mortar just down the road from Elmwood this past January, and it has already become an essential part of the area’s pizza scene. Similar to New York style, Pizza Champ’s pies are made with a sourdough crust that is a stunning base for such toppings as triple pepperoni, Buffalo chicken or the famous taco pizza. However, what makes the place so remarkable is that Altnether and Kelling have managed to translate the warm hospitality they provided at Elmwood into the humble drive-thru and pickup-window form. There are few silver linings in the industry these days, so their win is cause for celebration. —Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Takeout/Curbside/Drive-Thru
Pizza Champ

In March of 2020, Elmwood partners Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling found themselves standing in the middle of an empty dining room wondering what they were going to do to survive as a business. The time was filled with uncertainty, but there was one thing they were sure of: Fine dining, as we knew it, was not coming back, at least not for a very long time. The high-end restaurant veterans quickly adapted, turning their upscale dining room into a command center for a takeout-pizza operation that became so popular it transitioned from a pandemic survival tactic to a bona fide restaurant of its own. That concept, Pizza Champ (2657 Lyle Avenue, Maplewood; no phone), opened as a brick and mortar just down the road from Elmwood this past January, and it has already become an essential part of the area’s pizza scene. Similar to New York style, Pizza Champ’s pies are made with a sourdough crust that is a stunning base for such toppings as triple pepperoni, Buffalo chicken or the famous taco pizza. However, what makes the place so remarkable is that Altnether and Kelling have managed to translate the warm hospitality they provided at Elmwood into the humble drive-thru and pickup-window form. There are few silver linings in the industry these days, so their win is cause for celebration.
—Cheryl Baehr
40 of 59
Page 2 of 3
Previous Page
Next Page

All material © 2025 Riverfront Times, St. Louis, MO. All rights reserved.

Powered By Foundation